For a sleeveless kameez or kurti, the arm hole
is not cut deep and usually piping is done to finish the edges. The
construction and method of stitching a sleeveless kameez is discussed below.
Construction
0 to 1 – Kameez length
0 to 2 – 1/6 chest
2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or
1 ½”
0 to 4 – half shoulder minus 1” or 2”
4 to 5 – 1/2"
0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”
0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)
6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)
0 to 9 – Waist length
9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”
1 to 11- 2 to 3 measurement +2” or 3”
11 to 13- 1”
Join 3 to 5 through a curve as shown to get
the arm hole and 6 to 8 through a curve to get the front neck and 6 to 7
through a curve to get the back neck. Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder and 12 to 13
as shown.
Method
For stitching a sleeveless top, measure and
note down the body measurements.
Then take the cloth, open it in the reverse
such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold
again such that the two ends are on top of each other.
Mark the measurements directly on the cloth
using the construction given above (Or first make a paper draft). Then join all
the lines and curves.
Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides
and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and arm
hole, cut the cloth. Remember that the front and back necks have to be cut
separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting
it. Most importantly the shoulder line of all the four pieces must be
equal.
Stitching has to be done on the marked lines
and curves.
Begin by first stitching at the shoulders and finish the neck. For this refer FINISHING THE NECK. Then do piping with a cloth of the same or contrasting colour and stitch the sides. Leave a small opening at the two sides if required and finish it. Refer STITCHING THE SIDES for details. Finally double fold the extra cloth at the ends and stitch on top. Your sleeveless
top is now ready.
The images are just a pictorial representation.
I have tried to explain the method as clearly as possible but it is advisable to use your discretion while stitching this dress.
The images are just a pictorial representation.
I have tried to explain the method as clearly as possible but it is advisable to use your discretion while stitching this dress.
For more tutorials visit the dress designs page.
Excellent tutorials.Hi,Iam waiting for saari blouse tutorials.Plz reply
ReplyDeleteHello Aminaji, I made a Sleeveless kurti using the above guidelines provided on your website. The dress was perfect, also all my doubts were clarified.
ReplyDeleteI have a request, please make a chart "How to draft Deep Back Kurti and Blouse" providing details of reducing shoulder and armhole length.
Hi Shweta Gupta, thanks for your comment.. Will post a tutorial soon..
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